This is an article which appeared on a French Website - Cathares.org which was sent to me by its author, Philippe Contal. He gave me permission to translate it from the original French. I thought it was interesting because it shows just how much the story of the Cathars still permeates the psyche of the people who live now in what was Occitania, the setting of my novel, The Dove and the Devil. Montsegur is a fortress where the last major burning of the Cathars took place. That happened in 1244. It was a place where Cathars could come for prayer, retreats and where they were relatively safe. The word “Pog” which appears in the text is an Occitanian word for mountain.
Montsegur, Ariege, France July 17, 2006.
How many times have I climbed above the clouds making an assault on this citadel…? I remember the first time, in June 1970. I was with my grandfather Jean. Coming from a valley in the Ariege, he was passionate about the vast, wild countryside. There was everything there to make me, the adolescent, dream, the crystal clarity of the mountain lakes, the access to the bowels of the earth which led to the grottos, and the innumerable legends which have been passed down by the fireside for generations.
“Do you know the legend of The White Lady of Montsegur?” he asked me. “During storms you can see a white spectre on the ruined walls. It walks slowly along the top of the great wall…It’s Esclarmonde de Perella. Because she lived during the citadel’s last moment, Esclarmonde never stops coming back to these places that time has not erased from our memories.
After crossing the prat del cremat or the field of the burned, we had hardly begun to tackle the steep slope which led to the chateau when we found ourselves face to face with a stone column. Erected in 1960 by Dedat Roche, this monument had been installed to commemorate the burnings at the stake in 1244.
Als Catars do you see this stone? It was installed here so you won’t forget!
My grandfather had been telling me the history of the region for a long time. I knew about the heroic epic of those idealistic defenders who were Cathars. They might appear as extremists, certainly, for the stand they took. The acceptance of being burned at the stake rather than renouncing their faith might be considered very odd!
Like Esclarmonde who returns to haunt the walls of the fortress, the column affects anyone who pays attention to it.
My grandfather could talk for hours. His doctorates in medieval and ancient history were only a small part of his cultural heritage. He always punctuated his descriptions of the times with silences, as if he wished to make us digest his words.
Might it be possible, that behind these stories, there remain other things to be discovered? At twelve years of age then, my mind was always somewhere else, wrapped up in dreams, hopes and frustrations!
These memories were there when i climbed to the summit of the pog at Montsegur in the summer of 2006. Each year I make this pilgimage on my birthday. In July, very early on that morning, no one came to disturb the silence surrounding the mountain. Silence! Truth to tell it was enough to stop for only a few moments to discover the sleeping countryside usually hidden by all the comings and goings of people. Like the stars that seem to disappear with the coming of daylight, the noises of the birds, insects, the rustling of leaves, are all present during the day but find themselves equally stifled.
I made a stop at the foot of the column which appeared to guard the surroundings. A few branches twined around the base of the stone pedestal, a few sheets of paper: some laurel leaves and some poems had been left here!